Hato San Pablo Horse Ranch – Colombia Off The Beaten Track

I have just touched down in the small town of Yopal in the Los Llanos region to start my Colombia off the beaten track experience. I’m by far the only tourist here and the only thing I know is that I am going to be picked up by a small private plane and flown to Hato San Pablo. It’s only my third day in Colombia and I’m as white as it gets, so no blending in possible. But then again, who wants to blend in?

The plains of Los Llanos – Colombia off the beaten track

After some time, a woman approaches me asking for my name. She introduces herself as Sylvia, the owner of Hato San Pablo, a working cattle ranch with over 2000 cows and 200 horses situated in the vast plains of central Colombia. The area is covered by grasslands, woodlands and savanna, the look of it greatly changing with the seasons. It’s lush and green during the rainy season, then dry and dusty between November and May. Probably the most secret Colombia off the beaten track destination, it’s yet to be discovered by tourists, despite being a birder’s and a horse rider’s dream.

View from Hato San Pablo over the Cravo Sur River

We’ve got about an hour before the pilot picks us up so Sylvia decides to show me the local cattle auction just outside of Yopal. Despite not being too keen to see these animals being treated as merely products rather than individual souls, I do eat meat myself so really I should be willing to see where it comes from, right? There’s thousands of cattle waiting in small enclosures for their worth to be estimated. A few dozen cattle farmers sit down and watch the auction where the best and strongest animals are auctioned off. The heat is almost unbearable and after a while I’m glad we are ready to head back to the airport for our onward journey to the farm.

Landing at the Hato San Pablo Ranch – My true Colombia off the beaten track experience is about to begin

Arrival at Hato San Pablo

The last time I sat in a tiny Cessna aircraft was when one of my high school mates in Australia took me for a flight above the Sunshine Coast. We were both only 16 and he had just gotten his license. Back then, nothing really scared me. Sylvia lets me sit in the front. Before we take off, I see the pilot crossing himself next to me, not sure if this makes me more or less nervous! 

The land opening up before us is dry and brown, the only green areas I can spot surround the river winding through the barren land. But then I spot large palm oil fields below us. Descending for landing I try to make out the landing strip, however I can’t really see one?! After about 40 minutes we finally land on a strip of grass directly leading onto the farm, pretty much stopping right in front of the main house! What an incredible experience. Welcome to Hato San Pablo! The farm’s dogs are quick to greet me and the hosts and staff make me feel welcome instantly.

During the first lunch it becomes pretty clear that the staff Hat Hato San Pablo know how to cook. This was by far the best and tastiest home cooked meal I’ve had in a while. Everything is made fresh and sourced locally. Women’s and men’s roles here are very clearly defined. The women cook and take care of the household and children while the men are responsible for the cattle, horses and land. Sylvia, who has been horse riding all her life, is an exception to the rule.

Time to saddle up! The ranch has about 200 horses – both wild and tamed

First day at Hato San Pablo – Saddle up!

Originally the farm had only one main house and housing for its workers. Over the past two years the space was gradually opened up for travellers looking to experience the authentic way of life on a remote cattle ranch – however, without missing out on comfort. There is a range of accommodation options from triple rooms, a stunning tree house with view over the river to a small private pool villa for flashpackers willing to pay a little extra (worth it!). It’s clear that the Hato San Pablo team put a lot of love into the design – contemporary, artsy and bohemian greatly contrasting the surroundings.

I am very lucky. Roberto, the farm’s sales representative, puts me up in one of their largest and most gorgeous open plan rooms. It features a massive rain shower, living room and patio with a view over the river and the jungle across. Accommodation prices include full board and most activities available, such as horse riding, bird watching, kayaking and mountain biking.

View from Hato San Pablo’s River House – One of the accommodation options

After lunch I saddle up on a horse that will be one of the easiest I have ever ridden. From experience most South American horses are much calmer, less prone to spook and easier to handle than their European counterparts (I can already sense the horse experts ganging up on me). They are used to carry their owners hundreds of miles on end in scorching heat, moving herds of wild horses and cows, while patiently and devoutly listening to each command. While scouting the area on horseback, Roberto tells me about the ranch, its work and challenges. After several hours, we return to the ranch to a dinner that’s just as delicious as lunch. We finish the day over a bottle of wine under the stars listening to typical llanero music. What a fantastic first day at Hato San Pablo!

Catching wild horses with the Llaneros

Catching wild horses with the Llaneros – Colombia off the beaten track at its finest!

Day two and I have to seriously up my horse riding game. The plan is to find a group of wild horses and bring them back to the ranch. On average the horses have to be caught roughly once a month for a check up, to treat potential injuries and to cut their tail hair, which is used to make new lassos. Armed with my phone in one and camera in the other hand, off we ride and I quickly realise that this experience wouldn’t be suitable for inexperienced riders. After about an hour we see a large herd of cattle and about 20 horses nearby. The cowboys quickly take their positions – one from the left, the other from the right and one riding ahead to pen the animals in and lead them back towards Hato San Pablo. Most of them ride barefoot, maybe I should try it sometime?

Colombia off the beaten track – Lassoing the horses in at Hato San Pablo

Back on the farm, the real work begins and I start to understand how tough life here on a remote cattle ranch really is. The horses need to be caught by lasso one by one and brought down to the ground. There is a specific technique to this and it requires an enormous amount of bravery and strength. Watching these men swing their lassos, pull tight, subdue the animal and treat it once on the ground, is a scene straight out of a movie. That’s how it’s been done for centuries and for a moment time stands still. To prove their bravery some of the cowboys climb the horses before they get let loose – most of them last about 3 seconds before being bucked off!

My incredible Colombia off the beaten track weekend comes to an end

After a short hike on the dry river bed I relax by the pool. Hato San Pablo seems to offer something for everyone. If you want a true Colombia off the beaten track adventure, you get adventure, if you want to lay by the pool, then this place is for you as well. Hato San Pablo is peaceful. It has a good energy. It offers its guests complete immersion into the local culture and customs, immersion into the authentic life of a remote cattle ranch. There is only limited wifi and barely any signal due to how remote the farm is located. Instead you’re incredibly close to nature, surrounded by exceptional food, great people, animals and most importantly tranquility.

Time to relax – Hato San Pablo has it all!

After a farewell bbq, it’s time to pack and prepare for my flight back to Yopal early the next morning. I leave with a feeling of content, proud of how well I kept up during the horse riding and grateful for this unique Colombia off the beaten track experience at Hato San Pablo – I’ll be back for sure. 

Next stop: Barichara, one of Colombia’s most picturesque colonial towns. 

For more information on prices, activities and ways to get to Hato San Pablo, please contact me directly.

An incredible Colombia off the beaten track experience comes to an end