Insider’s Guide to the Best Amazon Lodges in Peru and Ecuador

When it comes to which part of the Amazon to visit, it all depends what you’re after. For wildlife lovers and birders, there is no way around Yasuni National Park in Ecuador and staying in Amazon lodges such as Napo Wildlife Center. Then again for travellers tight on time just looking for a quick stint to the Amazon, the area and amazon lodges surrounding Puerto Maldonado in Peru is perfect. Budget conscious-travellers looking for a remote experience and simpler lodges, should consider Iquitos in northern Peru as a starting point. Then again it also depends on the reason you want to travel to the Amazon – different kinds of wellness retreats for example are becoming increasingly popular. So let’s look into the different options and amazon lodges in more detail – here is your Insider’s Guide to the Amazon. 

Ecuadorian Amazon – Yasuni National Park

Hands down, there is no better place for viewing wildlife in the Amazon than Yasuni National Park, a designated UNESCO biosphere reserve and a 45 minute flight from Quito. As the most biodiverse place on earth, Yasuni only covers around 0.15% of the Amazon basin but is home to more than a third of the Amazon’s amphibian, reptile and bird species. This richness in flora and fauna and the comparably easy access by boat from Coca along Napo River, makes it a heavenly experience for birders and wildlife enthusiasts. The region is also home to several indigenous groups, including two uncontacted indigenous tribes.

One of the top Amazon Lodges – Napo Wildlife Center

Amazon Lodges in and around Yasuni National Park – Napo Wildlife Center

If you want an experience of a lifetime, stay at Napo Wildlife Center, which is the only lodge situated within National Park borders, as it is run by the Kichwa Añangu community. Napo Wildlife Center is surrounded by deep, dense primary forest covered by a silver mist every morning. The profit they make goes back into the protection of the park, renewable energy, healthcare and education. A 3-night stay (minimum) at Napo Wildlife Center comes at a cost though, be prepared to pay around $1400 per person (on a double basis). This includes, all cultural activities, expeditions, full board, use of their canopy tower and the 4 hour boat journey on Napo River from and to Coca.

Canoe to Napo Wildlife Center

Alternatively to Napo Wildlife Center, you can check out La Selva Ecolodge and Sacha Lodge, which are situated just outside of the park’s borders. These Amazon lodges come in slightly cheaper, yet are still at the upper end of the price spectrum.

If you want to travel to the Ecuadorian Amazon without being more than a grand out of pocket, consider Caiman Lodge in the Cuyaveno Reserve, north of Yasuni National Park. It’s a budget oriented ecolodge catering to a slightly younger adventurous traveller crowd with excellent service, guiding and food. Caiman lodge offers very reasonable prices with three nights costing 290 USD (as of December 2021) including transportation, full board and guided excursions.

In summary, the Ecuadorian Amazon and Yasuni National Park is the right choice for:

• Flashpackers (and everyone else) on a higher budget
• Travellers not on a tight schedule
• People looking for that once in a lifetime Amazon experience
• Wildlife enthusiasts and birders
• Travellers looking for full immersion into the local culture
• People looking for a truly sustainable travel experience

Peruvian Amazon – Puerto Maldonado and Madre de Dios

Puerto Maldonado is the gateway into the Madre de Dios region and Tambopata National Reserve. With short direct flights both from Lima and Cuzco, it is easily accessible and therefore popular with travellers on a tight schedule. Most people choose the area around Puerto Maldonado as their final travel destination before flying home. 

Here, the diversity and quantity of wildlife depends on how far you are willing to head into the Reserve. The tourist infrastructure is well developed and there are about a dozen stunning amazon lodges to choose from both close to Puerto Maldonado and further in. In general, accommodation prices are a lot lower compared to Yasuni National Park in Ecuador.

Amazon Lodges around Puerto Maldonado

Amazon Lodges around Puerto Maldonado – Day Trip to Sandoval Lake

If you have only got a couple of nights, a great choice is to stay at Inkaterra’s Hacienda Concepción. The lodge is located about half an hour by boat from Puerto Maldonado and is one of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World. Considering the high standard of the lodge, the prices are quite reasonable and include full board, excursions and transport. Two nights on a double basis in one of their free standing beautiful cabañas will set you back about $400 per person but it is definitely worth it.

Amazon Lodges around Puerto Maldonado – Hacienda Concepción

I would however call it jungle experience light, as you don’t really venture that deep into the jungle – most of the surrounding flora is secondary forest. Yet you can still find an abundance of wildlife. If the thought of creepy crawlers in your shower freaks you out, then the lodge also offers rooms in their main building surrounded by proper walls, minimising potentially unwanted house guests! This is the perfect lodge for anyone who wants a quick glimpse into the Amazon without losing out on a certain level of comfort.

Posada Amazonas and Refugio Amazonas, two amazon lodges run by Rainforest Expeditions provide a bit more exposure to “The Wild”. Your Amazonian experience will be more immersive based on location and their cabañas, which at Posada are completely open to one side (nope, not even a net, but of course a mosquito net around your bed). Both lodges are around a two-hour combined bus and boat ride from Puerto Maldonado sitting on the edge of the Reserve. Refugio Amazonas is a bit further down Tambopata River and wildlife is really abundant here. With around $600 per person for a 2-night stay, both amazon lodges come in pricier than Hacienda Concepción. The deeper you travel into the reserve, the more pricey it gets.

Tambopata Research Centre – The Furthest Out

Wait, did I say the Peruvian Amazon was something for Amazon newbies and travellers tight on time? Well, not so much when you’re thinking about staying at the Tambopata Research Center. This is the only lodge that lies within the Tambopata National Reserve and is the furthest out from Puerto Maldonado. I’d recommend to stay at least 3 nights for the long trip to be worth it and fully engage in the center’s work and mission. 

This place is a birder’s dream – one of their many research projects include the Macaw Conservation Project, which is what the research centre was born out of over 30 years ago. While the newly renovated accommodation provides a high standard of comfort, wildlife, conservation and the center’s project work is the main reason travellers decide to head that deep into the rain forest. This and a 35% probability (according to the center) to spot a jaguar has got its price, expect to pay around $1000 for a 3-night stay per person.

In summary, the Peruvian Amazon around Tambopata National Reserve (except Tambopata Research Center) is the right choice for:

• Flashpackers looking for a first glimpse into the Amazon
• Travellers on a tight schedule
• People looking for a good balance between comfort and a jungle experience
• Travellers who like wildlife but are not crazy about it (again except Tambopata Research Center which is a must-do for travellers who really want to learn more about the amazing conservation work carried out in the region)

Iquitos – Gateway to the Northern Part of the Peruvian Amazon

Over the past few years Iquitos has gotten a reputation for being the Nr. 1 place for Ayahuasca ceremonies. Type Iquitos into Google and you’ll see dozens of retreat centers popping up offering to heal your mind, body and spirit. Indeed there is a handful of trustworthy and certified retreats out there, but just as many black sheep and false shamans. That’s something to write about another time though!

Most Amazon Lodges around Iquitos offer fairly basic facilities and are great for travellers tight on budget

Coming back to the more common reasons to visit the Amazon; being away from civilisation for a while, experiencing basin’s unique wildlife and listening to the never ending sounds of the jungle day and night. Out of the three regions this article compares, this is the best option for the budget conscious flashpacker and the one who wants to experience the actual Amazon River. This is also the place to see pink Amazon River Dolphins.

Apart from Iquitos being the most uninspiring and sad looking town I’ve been to in Peru (I am very sorry dear iquiteños and iquiteñas, everything surrounding Iquitos in contrast is wonderful), it is the gateway for all activities in the region and you will most likely have to stay here for at least a night.

Amazon Lodges Around Iquitos

The lodges up here certainly aren’t as glamorous as their Madre de Dios counterparts. Sometimes there is even a lack of electricity, but you get an authentic Amazonian experience for a much lower cost. So the rainforest around Iquitos is for everyone looking to experience the Amazon on a budget. Most of the lodges are around 3-4 hours away by boat such as Muyuna Lodge and Yarapa River Lodge. What’s really nice about the lodges up here is that eco really means eco. The majority is closely cooperating with local communities supporting a variety of local sustainability initiatives. They invest a huge part of their profits back into Pachamama and the very communities that allow them to operate on their land in the first place. 

In summary, the northern part of the Peruvian Amazon is the right choice for:

• Flashpackers on a tight budget
• Travellers with a flexible schedule not tight on time
• People looking for a simple jungle lifestyle
• Travellers wanting to see their money making a difference
• Flashpackers who want to be able to say “I have been to the actual Amazon River